“And Tony said, ‘How’s November?’ ”) A ride-along with Bourdain promises the sidekick an experience that, in this era of homogenized tourism, is all too rare: communion with a foreign culture so unmitigated that it feels practically intravenous. “I kind of jokingly said Madagascar, just because it’s the farthest possible place,” he told me. (A fan of the show, Aronofsky proposed to Bourdain that they go somewhere together. On a recent visit to Madagascar, he was accompanied by the film director Darren Aronofsky. People often ask Bourdain’s producers if they can tag along on an escapade. In Bourdain’s recollection, his original pitch for the series was, roughly, “I travel around the world, eat a lot of shit, and basically do whatever the fuck I want.” The formula has proved improbably successful. Like a great white shark, Bourdain tends to be photographed with his jaws wide open, on the verge of sinking his teeth into some tremulous delicacy. Petersburg or spearing a fatted swine as the guest of honor at a jungle longhouse in Borneo. The secret ingredient of the show is the when-in-Rome avidity with which Bourdain partakes of indigenous custom and cuisine, whether he is pounding vodka before plunging into a frozen river outside St. All told, Bourdain has travelled to nearly a hundred countries and has filmed two hundred and forty-eight episodes, each a distinct exploration of the food and culture of a place. After shifting to the Travel Channel, it was renamed “Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations,” and it ran for nine seasons before moving to CNN, in 2013. Initially, it was called “A Cook’s Tour,” and aired on the Food Network. Over the past fifteen years, Bourdain has hosted increasingly sophisticated iterations of the same program. On his second night in Hanoi, however, he kept an unusual appointment: dinner with Anthony Bourdain, the peripatetic chef turned writer who hosts the Emmy-winning travel show “Parts Unknown,” on CNN. Obama was scheduled to meet with President Trần Đại Quang, and with the new head of Vietnam’s national assembly. It was Obama’s first trip to Vietnam, but he encountered this pageant mostly through a five-inch pane of bulletproof glass. Hanoi’s broad avenues are crowded with honking cars, storefront venders, street peddlers, and some five million scooters and motorbikes, which rush in and out of the intersections like floodwaters. Moments after Air Force One landed at the Hanoi airport last May, President Barack Obama ducked into an eighteen-foot, armor-plated limousine-a bomb shelter masquerading as a Cadillac-that was equipped with a secure link to the Pentagon and with emergency supplies of blood, and was known as the Beast. When the President of the United States travels outside the country, he brings his own car with him.
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